Sewing Simple Kurti Tutorial
Dear Sewists,
Now you all are aware how to take sewing measurements. So lets proceed to our next step which is drafting the kurti pattern. First we will draw the simple kurti pattern on paper. So now keep ready paper, pencil, eraser, measuring scale and obviously the most essential thing my dear MT, guessing what’s MT hmmm…. it is Measuring Tape. 🙂 Below snap is of the diagram of simple kurti, drawn by my cute and dear mom.
Kurti draft
This is exactly how she teaches her students. It’s written in Hindi language. On left side are measurements and on right side is the diagram of kurti. Below is the detailed pattern of kurti.
kurti
Kurti drafting pattern:
All the measurements are including seam allowance and in INCHES.
1-2 =Full length + 2″
1-3 =Shoulder/2 +1/4″
1-4 =Shoulder/2
4-5 =Chest round/4 +1.5″
1-6 =Waist length (vertical) which is usually 14-15. Details G-H
6-8 = Chest/5 – 1/2″
6-7 =Waist round /4 (horizontal) +1.5″ Details I-J
8-9 =Hip round/4 +1.5″
2-10 =Hip round/4 +1.5″.This is the bottom line of kurta.
4-11 =Shoulder/2–1/2″
Draw a line from 3-11
3-C =1/2″ USE THIS LINE ONLY FOR COLLAR NECK OR FOR VERY SMALL NECKLINE.
1-12 =Scale/6 Details Neck width.( Scale is half measure of chest)
1-13 =Scale/3 Neck depth FRONT
1-14 =Neck depth as required.
11-A =1″
A-B = 1/2″
The slit starts from 9.
How to draw the kurti sewing pattern
First of all fold the paper in half. On folded side draw the full length measurement. In the sewing diagram it is from 1 – 2 and follow the above mentioned steps in the way I have written. Special attention is needed while drafting the Arm Hole and the necklines.
How to draw the ARM HOLE/ SCYE
3-A-5 = Front Arm scye
11-E = 2″
11-A = 1″
Make a slant line from 11 and mark a point A over there and make a curve joining 3-E-A-5.
3-B-5 = Back Arm scye
Mark a slant line from A-B which measures 1″and make a curve joining 3-B-5.
How to draw the necklines
Front neckline for kameez
Measure slant wise starting from 12 -13 for neck depth and mark the required depth. Give the desired shape either round oval etc.
Back neckline for kurti
Measure slant wise starting from 12-14 for neck depth and mark the required depth. Give the desired shape either square or any free curve designs.
Your paper pattern is ready now. In the next sewing tutorial we will explore the sleeves cutting and drafting. Till then good bye.
HAPPY BLOGGING
LOVE”N”GRATITUDE
Gurmeet
Thank you for the detailed guide! This is very helpful.
I generally buy shop at cheap kurtis online sale!
Hi Gurmeet ji,
Your explanation is excellent about basic kurti. I had learnt it from others before but the measurements you stated are very dynamic. Thanks for the post.
Dear Shivani,
Thanks for the lovely comment 😍😍
You made my day. You know when a viewer appreciates our efforts I am toooooo happy 😄. Keep visiting and commenting 😉
Thanks for appreciating our efforts.
Hello zGurmitji can u pl post tutorial for stand collar kurti
both for full collar and half collar
Dear Nipa ,
I’ll surely upload it in Mid January. Hope you will stay with us.
Whether 1-13 is 6 inch or 12 inches you told scale/3 scale is half chest or full chest
Dear Bhuvana,
1-13 is 6 inches.
It’s a good idea. I can make beautiful kurta. Thank you so much. (Shiranga thushari, Sri Lanka)
Dear Shiranga,
Hope you’ll share with us your kurta.
hi gurmeet..when i stitch kurti it falls off from shoulder and wrinkles come near armhole in the front part. What is the relation between shoulder and neck depth? Has it anything to do with the falling from the shoulder? Please help me..
Dear Nandu,
Arm hole and neck line length are inter-connected. If your kurti falls from shoulder it means either your both necklines are very deep or the curves of the arm hole in sleeves and the top are not properly curved. So first sew a kurti with less deep neckline. And then see if the problem persists.
Hope you are following mykurti cutting tutorial.
Hi gurmeet! First i thank u for such a wonderful blog. For the first time i am visiting your blog. Its very helpful.
Hi Gurmeetgi
Still in my kurtha have the folds from shoulder to arm. How can i correct it?
Folds occur if the arm hole is not properly curved shape. Check it and rectify the curve according to your body shape.
Thanks gurmeetgi
Dear Gurmeet
I used to take 1-4 as 1/4 chest-1″ but here it is 1/2 shoulder. Could you please tell what difference does it make in the final finished kameez in both cases. Some take that measurement directly from shoulder to starting of armhole. My mother’s chest measurement is 45″so while taking 1-4 i get confused. 1/4th chest -1 becomes very deep and looks very odd. Can u please help.
Dear SK,
I think you should cut your mother’s dress according to my tutorial. You will understand the difference.
Gurmeet Mam , Your blog is simply awesome….I am ur Great fan
Hi Gurmeet,
I really appreciate your effort in posting such a helpful blog. I do have a little doubt though, the measurements 11-A – 1inch nd A -B 1/2 inch is this vertical or horizontal, should i mark it on the 11-3 or 11-5 line in the draft?
Regards,
Maria
Dear Maria,
A big Sorry for the late reply.
You have to mark the points A and B slant wise. Will update it in the post too,
hi gurmeet,
thnx for sucha detailed tutorial…
have a doubt..
the kurtis tht i stitch, often looks funny at the bottom edges (ie; just below where the side slits end), it hangs to the side… can u tell me where i’m going wrong.. also can u show picutre tutorial reg how to take measurements for a kameez, from an existing kurti
Hi gurmeet..thanks for starting such a nice blog…very nice explaination..I wish u were on youtube too..life would be soo easy for beginners like us..can u please post few maternity kurtis pattern with gathers around the waist line or so..
I had uploaded my works here.waiting for your opinion to improve
Hi Gurmeet
You have mentioned that A-B = 1/2″
but in ARM HOLE/ SCYE you have mentioned that 3-B-5 = Back Arm scye and
Mark a slant line from A-B which measures 1″
So I did not understand as to why we have different measurements here. Please help.
Thanks! Bini
Dear Bini,
The front arm hole/ scye is deep compared to back arm hole/ scye.So the measurement also differs.
How large of a seam allowance do you use?
Dear S.Mahnken,
In my tutorials, the digit after the + sign is my seam allowance for that specific measurement.
Hi Gurkeet
Again I have uploaded two kurthas here and waiting for your feedback to improve. Thanks
Anu
Perfect! :))
Well, Dear Gurmeet, Please show us a tutorial on how to sew
1) a Chinese collar Kurta
2) high neck around the neck and joins with simple V neck
3) Attaching Zip and how much extra cloth we need to take.
Thanks!
Hi Gurmeet,
Please let me know the calculations to put tuck in a kurta too.
Also, why do we get pleats around the sleeve(armhole)? It gives an untidy look from the back. Please help.
Thank You!!
Dear Gurmeet,
Let me rephrase my statement & question:
1) Calculation of sewing drafts on a kurta.
2) I should call it as wrinkles around armhole, how to avoid that? What did I do wrong to get this untidy look?
Dear Gurmeet,
I followed your instructions and have finished two kurta’s one with high-neck and another with lining, I have cut & sewed the armhole and sleeves carefully. So, I have uploaded the finish product here and look forward for your feedback to improve. Thanks again!
Hi.. Dear,
Received your kurta images. Very well stitched.
In my next post I will share with all sewists the images of kurta which are uploaded by the budding seamstresses of my blog.
Hi Gurmeet
Thank you for sharing your talent with us. 🙂
I have just started my journey into the sewing world so questions flow to you till it gets perfect (approx) :)) I have observed that after sewing the kurta, the sleeve looks funny, as if it is stretched from the chest and i see folds around the armhole part both front and back. And when you hold the kurta straight, it seems as if the sleeves are not aligned, the front is shorter than back. Please help me as where am I going wrong here.
Hi Dear…
The problem you have mentioned arises when the arm hole of kurta and sleeves are not cut in the required shape. I would suggest you first draft my pattern on paper and then transfer it on cloth and further stitch it.
Hope this solves your issue.
Thanks a ton for your guidance on this. Let me try it this ways. Will update you if things go right!!.
Till then… Have a great time!!
For Back deep neck of 6″ my kurta shoulder is fall. how to make it stay on the shoulder?
The shoulder falls if the both the necklines are deep. So try keeping your neckline less deep. If it still persists try according to my tutorial.
how much is the minimum and maximum neck depth and length?
It depends on the dress and the person’s choice.
Hi Gurmeet, thanks for give this measurements of cutting comeez. Usually i take 1-4=chest/4-1. But now i follow ur measurement(shoulder/2).then i got perfect fitting. And i got appreciation from my freinds for that fitting. So thank you so much for give that measurements.
Dear Anu,
Thanks, for complementing my work.Continue sewing your dresses and share with us.
I would like to see your dress ,so if possible upload the image in blog.
Hi dear Kaur,
I had uploaded that in your blog. Try to check that.
Hi Gurmeet, could you please help me draw my first basic pattern. It will be my first attempt and I really want to make a princess line blouse. Many thanks
Hi Tanya,
You can draw your basic pattern according to my tutorial.If you face any problem just let me know I’ll help you. I would suggest you to draw your pattern first on paper and then transfer to cloth and if possible take cotton fabric for the dress.
All the best…..
Could you show how to pipe the side openings ?
First fold the side openings as usual. And then attach the piping strip like I explained in the neckline tutorial.
9-10 are the side openings right?
Yes its side openings.
Keep visiting.:)
hi germeet,i did not understood “shoulder length of 12 and not 14”.(our natural body structure has that slanting at shoulders,then y that slant is only needed for closed necklines and not for other ones? pls clear…
If you measure the shoulder length it is usually 14, but for deep neck we take shoulder length 12. So for 1-3 we take 6″.
While sewing the shoulder we sew it slant wise, so no need to go for 3-c.
If still you go with 3-c for deep neckline it won’t affect anything.
thank u very much
thank u for ur immediate reply.i want to know y some tops slips from the shoulder.some takes the armhole=armhole/2.is it the right way?are armhole and neck length connected?do we have to adjust armhole or shoulders according to the neck length?
Arm hole and neck length are inter connected.If your top slips means either your both necklines are deep or the curve of the arm hole in sleeves and the top is not properly curved.For deep neckline in back take shoulder/2-1″ (1-3).
Also 1-12 should not be more than 2.75″.
Hope this will help you.Well my next post is of stitching kurti which will clear all your doubts.
Here you write ” for deep neckline in back take shoulder/2-1″. Here is my doubt. My 1-3 is 7, 1-13 & 1-14 is 6.5. Is this measurements wants to take shoulder/2-1?
Yes, you should take shoulder/2-1. As your front and back neckline are of same measurement.
how comes it waist length?is it waist round
Yes dear, its waist round. I have updated the post.
hi,
i was searching for years for an active blog like this.i have read all the Indian sewing blogs . Gurmeet plz don leave this blog in between as other does.with the help of net i learned how to stitch salwar kameez. Now i have many more doubt about some techniques.could u plz clear that?. By the way am running textile and readymade shop at kerala. where are you from? love to hear more from u….. take care..
Hi,Deepa
Don’t worry am an active blogger.And this blog is my life too.You can ask your doubts I will help you.Well am from MUMBAI and sewing kurti past 10 pretty years.
is there any mistake from 6 to 7?
Hi,Deepa
I don’t think there’s any mistake.If you have any doubt about it just let me know.
Hi Gurmeet,
Pls confirm in 6-8 & 4-11 are we supposed to reduce1/2″ ?
Regards
Kanupriya
Dear Kanupriya,
Yes, you should reduce 1/2″.
Hi, Gagan.
It’s nice you like Kurta Pajama,you must wear it to feel comfortable.
I love to wear Kurta Pajama 🙂
Very nice tutorial about Kurta.
This blog have great tutorials that’ll surely help to Sewing lovers 🙂
Regards!
Ankit
Dear Ankit,
It’s nice to see you here!!Thanks for visiting.Stay tuned.