Hope you all have stitched your kurta/kurti. Today we will continue with shalwar.First we will draft it on paper and finally on the fabric.
salwar
Measurements required:
Length-Measure it from the point you tie your belt till the end of feet.
Hip round -Measure the whole hip round.
Ankle round -Measure from one end to another.
Instructions:
1-2=Full length – waist belt width (which is 8″) + 1″
1-3=The width of the fabric
3-4=Hip round/4 + 1/2″
2-5=Ankle round/2 +1″
WAIST BELT:
A-C = Waist belt width (8″)
A-B = Full hip +6″ (waist belt length)
Note: Take A-B=9″ for hip round measuring upto 36″.
First we will stitch the waist belt. Fold the rectangle ABCD in half (make a mark at this point as this is the mid point of waist belt) such that A lies on B .Keep both the right side of fabric on one another.Start sewing from top line AB and stop at point 1.Leave a gap of 1″ and again start from 2 till the end of line CD .So you have a closed rectangle.Now hold the fabric from point X and fold it and lay it at Y.From this fold the drawstring will pass and will come out from the gap which we left between 1-2 .So waist belt is ready..
The fabric for waist belt will be from the dotted area,which I’ve shown in the layout.
Layout:
Fold the fabric width wise such that the selvages lie on one another.Once again fold the fabric length wise such that all four selvages lie on one another. In the above figure you can see the colored dotted area from there we will take seat belt and ankle round fabric. You will also need ankle canvas strip I prefer 1″width it’s available with all tailoring material shops.
First cut the canvas strip for making ankle rounds.Length of 2-5 = length of strip.Take the left over fabric in our case it’s the dotted area :).Keep the strips on fabric and cut leaving space on all four sides.Iron it so the strip will stick to the fabric.Sew on one side length wise.
Keep this right side of strip on right side of shalwar fabric such that the sewed folded side is towards the fabric.Now sew the along the strip line taking care that sewing should not be done on canvas strip.In the snap I’ve shown the sewing line as red dotted line.
After sewing flip this strip inside,means the strip will go on the wrong side of fabric.
The snap will make it easy.
Sewing both legs of shalwar. Keep both the shalwar layer on one another taking care that one right side fabric is kept on another right side fabric of shalwar .Sew along the crotch line 3-4 taking a little curve.
Now start taking pleats on salwar. The pleats of both legs should face each other.Take more pleats for front side and 2-3 small pleats for back.While sewing the shalwar with belt take care that the right side of waist belt is with right side of salwar,and the shalwar part is up and belt down and sew along the whole line C-D of waist belt.
Stitching of shalwar done and your shalwar is ready.
The finished salwar snap.
It’s easy naa…
Happy Blogging.
LOVE ‘N’ GRATITUDE
Gurmeet 🙂
Hi Gurmeet,
I feel your blog is very useful to me and I am very much interested in your teaching.
Pls provide new learning skills.
I too wanted to become a skilled person in tailoring.
Thank you.
Joycee.A
Dear Joycee A,
Thanks for the appreciation.
How do you curve the crotch line while sewing please explain with a diagr
Dear Ponnis,
Seam allowance is included in the Instructions. So you just proceed with your cutting 🙂
is there to include ease and seam allowance while cutting.
Hi,Elizabeth
Thanks for appreciating the site.Well the belt width is taken about 8-9″ as some tie the belt above belly button and some below belly button. Also if we take less width of salwar belt the crotch will be affected. I agree with you regarding short kurtas,and in such case width of belt should be less.
I liked your comment,and am happy as a blogger loves that their reader is engaged with blog.
Hi Gurmeet,
It is a beautiful site. Very nice of you to put your knowledge out there for every one. I am sure I will learn some nice tips from you.
I also sew salwars. One thing I wish to point out is that if you dont mind is the length of the belt,ie B-D on your diagram
Normally the length B-D according to what I have been taught should not exceed 6 inches.It should be 6+1/2 inch to attach the bottom part +2 inches for elastic.The reason I think is as the length of the belt increases the visibility when wearing short kurtas is greater and it is not aesthetically pleasing plus people who are slightly obese can feel the drag. Thanks
Could we see pictures of the finished salwar ?
Hi Craftyme,
Have a look at snap of the finished salwar.
Hello! I’m Hasina. I’m from Mumbai. Can you please show Anarkali Panel Cutting? And how to measure armhole from shoulder down to chest. Because sometimes the measures of armhole changes, so how to take a perfect measure? And how to measure armhole of a person whose chest measurement is 48 cm? Your blog is very interesting! Keep posting and we’ll stay tuned! Thanks!
Hello, Hasina, Thanks for your appreciative words .For measuring armhole keep point 0 of MT where the shoulder ends and measure full under arm round. For 48 cm chest, measure in same way .Very soon I’ll be posting Anarkali dress.
Could you show how to make a churidar
And an anarkali
Hi Craftyme, very soon I’ll be posting it.