First of all my heart felt apologies for not posting ( such a long time) to all readers,sewists,subscribers of MTC ( My Thread Creations ). But you all aware about the reason for delay.Thanks for you support.
But the show must go on…….
So, let’s start with our lessons. Today’s post is about collar dress / mandarin collar. It was in the pipeline for quite long but had time crunch to write. Also I am busy with the science projects of my son, so more or less I am with him. In this post there are no snaps of sewing or cutting, will post when I’ll sew .
Drafting:
Front :
The front will be drawn as usual. Cut the neckline b-c-d as shown till the red line.
a-b = scale/6
a-c = 5″
c-d = 1″ or according to the need.
Back
The back will have 1″ more from shoulder side you can see the red lined part of the diagram.
1-2 and 3-4 = 1″
2-b = 1/2″ (half inch)
2-a = scale/6
Cut the neckline of back i.e 1-b-a-3-4
Collar drafting and sewing:
1-2 is folded side.
1-2 and 3-4 = 1″ this can be more also, as required
1-5 =2″
2-4 = half of neck round.(I prefer neck round of 14″ or as per your requirement. )
Make a curve as shown and cut along the line 2-1-5-4
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| Collar Draft |
Draw the collar draft. Cut the collar on fusing canvas. Iron the canvas collar on fabric and leave seam allowance of half inches on all four sides of fabric and cut it.Cut one more piece of fabric same way. Now you have with you 2 pieces of fabric one ironed with collar and another without collar i.e single fabric. Keep right side of both the fabric together , pin it up. Sew along the sides of canvas collar i.e 1-5-3-4 but don’t sew on the collar.Don’t sew on sides 2-4 as this part will attached to the collar. Turn the collar inside out and iron once again. Keep aside.
Sewing and attaching the collar :
Make neckline of front part i.e b-c-d. You can see that c-d is opened cut. Sew this cut with clean finishing. Attach a rectangle strip of fabric from c-d on any one side of it. This strip will be used for fixing the tich button or hooks.
Now sew both the shoulder parts together i.e front and back. First we’ll check the collar, so pin from the single one fabric side of 2-4 part of collar on kurta and see if it fits properly. In case if your collar fabric is more don’t worry ( outside in the collar and sew once again from the part where the collar fabric was more ) but if it is less you will have re-draft your collar , and cut as per required neck round. Sew the collar to the kurta, now after attaching from one side of collar you will see that one side of collar fabric remains unstitched fold it on the kurta side and sew it. So now your collar is attached to the kurta.
Attach the sleeves and finish your kurta .
Your collar neck kurta is ready.
Happy Blogging!!
LOVE ‘N’ GRATITUDE
Gurmeet 🙂
Gurmeet ji please tell me if i want to make collor neck then their is any changes in shoulder measurment
Kamlesh ji,
Add 1″ in the shoulder measurement while drafting the pattern.
Thanks Gurmeet ma’am for your quick reply. Will post my Kurti with mandarin collar soon.
Hello Gurmeet,
Im new to sewing. The little sewing I know I learnt it from you. Thanks a lot.
Now I thought I will sew mandarin collar for a kurti and had this doubt. What do you mean by “The back will have 1″ more from shoulder side”. Should I cut the shoulder slant and then seperate the front and back pieces?
Dear Kavitha,
First cut out the front part. Now take 1″ more on shoulder side which I’ve marked red means keep point 0 of MT on 1 and mark 1″ above and draw the red part.
Thank you GK Mam.
This is about Collar neckline Kurti. Front shoulder should kept on 3-2 of back shoulder or 1- 4 of back shoulder ….? . I hope it should be on 3-2 of back shoulder. pls clarify. Sorry to trouble u much.
Yes you are right. 🙂
It should be kept on 3-2.
Very happy to see your reply Mam. But may I know, is there any specific reason ,for taking 1 extra inch in back neck? Just to get more knowledge , I am asking you. Anyhow , I start sewing Collar neck kurti with your blessings and I post the snap soon.
Now a days , Once I ON the system , as the first thing ,
I want to see your blog and all patterns, become mad of it , I hope. Thank you.
We take 1″ extra as the back is closed.
Hi gurmeet
Why didnt we take 3-cfor this high neck
thanks for these content this is very useful. can you teach us the various type of sleeves
nice work dear. how r u? did u remember me?. am watching ur blog each and every day.. i wish you could upload more tutorials. god bless u
Dear Deepa ,
Of course I remember you. You were the first reader to ask doubts in comment section.
M fine.. How about you ?
Thanks for your kind words.
HI GURMEET,
DEAR, am fine too
now i stitch myself and do little outside orders too.i bought a janome machine. ( u showed me the path and now am traveling
through it) now am searching for the creative part. like attaching borders , pipping ,applique works,etc .i like to create applique . i did it very successfully . but attaching those to fabrics??????. IS NOW A BIG QUESTION MARK. FEELING DISAPPOINTED.
i tried different methods,but all went flop
its very difficult to get those tutorials. especially indian tutorials are not available.
hope u can help in this subject too
with lots of love
Kindly explain in detail what if collar fabric is more as in your instruction and what to do if collar fabric is less than the neckline since lots of people face this problem
What should be 2-4 in collar draft
Updated the post.
Thanks Gurmeet for posting this tutorial..I will try it for sure!
Hi Gurmeet
If u upload snaps of step by step cutting and sewing, it wiil be more clear to understand. Now its little confusing. So please upload snaps as soon as possible
Sure.
Is cut through 1ba34 for back neck? Cut through 4512 for collar?
Yes