Umbrella dress is a flared dress with skirt attached to it. Umbrella dress designs are available in many varieties. You can use this same umbrella pattern for Long umbrella kurtis cutting. The umbrella cut kurti designs drafting is divided in two parts: 1) Bodice 2) Skirt. So let’s start the drafting of umbrella cutting. The umbrella cut kurti video link in the post itself, browse and watch 🙂

Umbrella Dress Designs:

The fabric required for the front open umbrella kurti is 4 mtrs.

The Bodice drafting:

1. First of all draft the bodice pattern. I have made round neck collar kurti. Refer the pattern here, collar neck kurti.
2. ADD HALF INCH SEAM FOR THE FRONT OPENING WHILE DRAFTING THE PATTERN.
3. If you wish simple front open kurti you will draft the simple kurti pattern.
4. We will also add the darts in both bodice. Refer the post for the darts marking

To make umbrella dress pattern we will need the following measurements. These measurements are for drafting the skirt.

LENGTH	48″
WAIST LENGTH	14″”
WAIST ROUND	36″
LENGTH – WAIST LENGTH = FLARE LENGTH / SKIRT LENGTH/ GHER LAMBAI	34″

 

Below is the pattern of umbrella cutting.

Umbrella cutting:

2) The Skirt drafting:

MEASUREMENTS:

• We will need to know our Skirt length / Gher length for the skirt drafting.
• Length of the kurti – Waist length = Skirt length / Gher length
• 48″ – 14″= 34″= Skirt length / Gher length
• A- Z = Full fabric
• A- B = Full length=48″
• A- E & A-F = Waist round/3 + 1.5″
• E- H & F- G =Skirt length / Gher length + 2″ seam allowance

The drafting method:

1. First fold the fabric from A-B.
2. A-1 is folded side.
3. Pick up the fabric from point 1 and lay it on the line A – B, making a triangle.
4. Now you will get a right angled triangle ADC.
5. Mark, A- E & A-F = Waist round/3 + 1.5″
6. Make a curve from E-F =Skirt length / Gher length + 2″ seam allowance.
7. Now moving step by step as shown by dotted lines mark the skirt length.
8. Finally mark F- G =Skirt length / Gher length + 2″ seam allowance.
9. Give the curve shape from G – H.
10. Cut the skirt from E – F and G – H.
11. In one of the skirt part we will have a joint.
12. From point D you will have to stitch a fabric joint.

IMPORTANT TIPS 

1. The fabric design should be multi directional. I mean it should not run in only one direction.
2. If possible take Rayon fabric as it has a good fall.
3. You can make the kurti with 2 different fabric design too.
4. If you wanna make bodice of different color fabric, then you will need 1 mtrs fabric for bodice, if you wanna make full sleeves with it you’ll need 1.5 mtrs fabric for bodice.
5. While drafting the bodice and skirt make sure the waist round matches. See pic below named WAIST ROUND MATCHES.

Umbrella Kurti Cutting:

1. Fold the fabric as shown in pic 1. below, UMBRELLA SKIRT CUTTING
2. Draft the skirt pattern and pin it up from all 4 sides.
3. Cut the skirt. You will have 2 skirts.
4. Take one of the skirt part and cut it from the middle. This will be our front part of skirt.
5. Pin up the joint fabric.
6. Cut the back bodice keeping both folded side together.
7. Mark the darts, neckline and finally cut it.
8. Now lay the front bodice draft, keeping the folded side on selvedges, leaving half inch seam.
9. Mark the darts, neckline and finally cut it.
10. Cut the sleeves from side extra fabric.

 

Stitching Umbrella Cut Long Kurti:

1. Stitch the darts in both the bodice.
2. Attach the front bodice with the front skirt.
3. Attach the back bodice with the back skirt.
4. Stitch the placket for button patti, on FRONT bodice.
5. Join both the shoulders.
6. Stitch the collar.
7. Stitch the sleeves.
8. Bring the kurti inside out, stitch along the fitting line.
9. Finally fold the bottom of skirt.

Voila !!! your umbrella cut kurti is ready. Add the buttons, iron the garment and flaunt your newly stitched front open umbrella kurti 😉 The video link

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Love “N” Gratitude 🙂

Gurmeet Kaur